Inspired (eventually) by Roo:
5/8/07 San Miguel De Allende (Mexico)
Whuh. Such a heavy nap that even the rooster thinks it must be daybreak. That and the steady tam-tam-tam (bigger than a tap, smaller than a bam) of the adjacent (surely) stonemason, whisking of sweeping and some distant organ music (plus the occasional truck rolling past) are the sounds I awake to.
Alex [Someone I met in my hostel dorm room that morning] invited me along to a weekly market that's held outside the walking, gringo side of town, and we got along well. The market wasn't quite the assault on the senses that other markets can be, most likely because being just once a week it doesn't get the chance to build up an attack. Just like [Alison and I] had forgotten that we wanted to stay in a local hostel, I hope to be better about visiting our local flea markets on my return. Not necessarily to buy anything, just to enjoy the chaos/contrast of it all. Patterns are so easily formed, and it's very true that travel is a state of mind, something that you can work to achieve right at home (just as you can avoid it if you travel in certain stereotypically American but more likely just rich/isolated ways). To prove the point, in a town so jam packed with gringos, I didn't see a single one besides us at the market. While Alex said that there can often be more [of them] it still shows that many moving here aren't coming for "Mexico" but for something else. This town has so many gringos of a certain age with purebred dogs, I'm really reminded of my Uncle Gordon.
But, to Alex's point, just as you can create your travel at home by working to change patterns here and there, you can find travel or "authenticity" (whatever that is) even in the midst of gringoland. And at the market, amidst the cheap underwear, fresh fruit and veggies, rusty springs, random TV remotes, fish (aren't we in a desert?), baseball caps, etc., we ate ourselves some fine cactus gorditas and the
BEST horchatta I've ever had in my life. I didn't know it could be like that.
On the way back we were told the bus we got on would take us back to the city center. It took a long way to almost but not quite do so. It worked out, though, because we got to see more of the city that way, including the part that the Mexicans live in - not so fancy. Just another part of the mixture of Mexico, which fits as that's how this country was formed. Clowns got on the bus, which also may be indicative of something, but I have no idea what.